What's the best way to reach you?
The best way to get ahold of me is by text at (435) 851-2298. You can also call that number or send me a note from the contact page.
Electrical questions
Straight answers about old wiring, panels, outlets, chargers, and electrician licensing in Utah, with links to the safety groups and state offices behind them. For a job at your place, text me at (435) 851-2298.
Reaching me
What should I put in the text?
What is going on, the address, and whether anything is hot, buzzing, or smells like burning. If it is about a piece of equipment, a photo of its label (the nameplate with the volts and amps) helps me bring the right parts. Do not take a panel cover off to get a picture.
Where do you work?
I work across Central Utah. Kurt Larsen Electric LLC is at 186 south 300 west, Mt. Pleasant, UT 84647. If you want to be sure I can come to your town, text me the name of the town and ask.
Do you take small jobs?
Yes. I take small jobs as well as larger electrical projects, from switches and outlets to panel and service upgrades.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. I am a licensed and insured Master Electrician. In Utah, Master Electrician is the top individual electrician license, issued by the Division of Professional Licensing (DOPL). You do not have to take anyone's word for a license. Anyone can look up a Utah electrician on DOPL's Licensee Lookup and Verification site.
What will it cost?
It depends on the job: what is behind the wall, how easy it is to reach the attic or crawlspace, the parts, and whether a permit and inspection are part of it. Text me a description and the address, with photos if you have them, and ask me for a price.
How soon can you come?
That depends on my schedule, the job, and how urgent it is, so ask when you text. While you wait, if an outlet is hot to the touch, a breaker panel is buzzing, or something smells like burning plastic, stop using that circuit. If you see smoke, sparks, or flame, call 911 first.
What should I have ready?
A clear path to the panel, a list of what is not working, and what was running when it started. If the problem comes and goes, jot down when it happens and what was on. Keep pets out of the work area.
Warning signs
What are the warning signs of an electrical problem?
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) says to call a qualified electrician if you have fuses that blow or breakers that trip often, a tingling feeling when you touch an appliance, discolored or warm wall outlets, a burning or rubbery smell from an appliance, flickering or dimming lights, or sparks from an outlet. None of those are things to live with.
Why are my lights flickering?
Sometimes it is just a loose or failing bulb, or an LED bulb on a dimmer it was not made for. If one fixture keeps flickering with a new bulb, a connection in the switch or fixture may be loose. If lights dim when the microwave, a space heater, or another big load starts, that circuit may be overloaded. Flickering in several rooms at once can point to the panel or the service connection, which is more serious. ESFI lists flickering or dimming lights as a sign of overload, and Massachusetts fire officials say to have an electrician look soon.
Why is my outlet or switch warm?
An outlet or switch plate should not be warm. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) lists hot face plates, flickering lights, dead circuits, and a burning-plastic smell as signs of trouble, and says to have a qualified electrician find the cause instead of trying it yourself. Common causes are a loose connection, an overloaded circuit, or a worn outlet. Stop using it and unplug what is on it. If you smell burning or see sparks, Massachusetts fire officials say to call the fire department.
Why is my breaker or panel buzzing?
Breakers normally run quietly. A loud or ongoing buzz can mean a loose connection, an overloaded circuit, or a failing breaker, and arcing behind it is a fire risk. ESFI lists crackling, sizzling, or buzzing as a warning sign, and Massachusetts fire officials put a sizzling or buzzing sound on their call-the-fire-department list. Leave the cover on and do not tighten anything inside. CPSC points out that parts in a panel are usually live even with the main breaker off.
Why does my breaker keep tripping?
A breaker trips to keep the wire from overheating. ESFI lists frequent trips as a sign of an overloaded circuit, often from too many heat-producing appliances on one circuit or everyday use of extension cords. Repeated trips can also come from a short, a ground fault, or a worn breaker. If it trips again as soon as you reset it, leave it off. Never put in a bigger breaker or fuse to make it stop. InterNACHI notes that oversized fuses let the wiring overheat.
How common are home electrical fires?
NFPA reports that from 2020 to 2024, U.S. fire departments went to an average of 46,652 home electrical fires a year, with an average of 527 deaths and about $2.4 billion in direct property damage each year. Electrical distribution, lighting, or power transfer equipment was involved in 47 percent of them. NFPA's earlier report points out that wiring in attics and behind walls is a particular concern, because a fire there can burn for a while before anyone notices.
Old and historic wiring
Do you work on old and historic houses?
Yes. I work in older houses and buildings with knob-and-tube, old ivory outlets and switches, cloth-covered wire, fuse boxes, and two-prong outlets that need to be changed over to grounded ones. Text me what the house still has, and the year it was built if you know it.
What electrical problems are common in old homes?
The same few show up again and again. Two-prong outlets with no ground wire. Knob-and-tube or cloth-covered wiring whose insulation has turned brittle. Fuse panels, sometimes with fuses bigger than the wire can safely carry. Too few outlets, so extension cords end up doing the work of wiring. And decades of changes by people who were not electricians, including splices outside of boxes. Home inspectors at ASHI and InterNACHI see these all the time, and ESFI says heavy extension cord use means a house needs more outlets.
What is cloth-covered wiring, and is it dangerous?
An early kind of house cable, sometimes called "rag wire," had a cotton or rayon outer sheath. According to ASHI, it shows up most in houses from the 1940s and 1950s and gave way to plastic-sheathed cable in the 1960s. With age, the cloth and the rubber insulation on the wires inside can dry out and turn brittle, and like most old wiring it usually has no ground wire. This Old House lists cloth-covered wire with cracking rubber insulation as a sign of outdated wiring.
My house has aluminum wiring. Is that a problem?
It can be. CPSC estimated about 2 million homes were built with aluminum branch wiring between 1965 and 1973. The connections can overheat, and CPSC says they often fail without warning. CPSC accepts three permanent repairs in its aluminum wiring guide: rewiring with copper, COPALUM crimp connectors put on by a trained electrician, or AlumiConn connectors where COPALUM is not available. Where cable shows in a basement or attic, it is usually marked "AL" or "Aluminum" every few feet. Do not open the panel to look.
Can an old house be rewired without tearing out the plaster?
Often, much of it can. The National Park Service asks that new wiring in historic buildings go in as quietly as possible: in secondary spaces, the attic or basement, or closets. NPS also recommends keeping historic plaster when it can be repaired. Electricians who work in old houses commonly run new cable from the attic and basement down through the wall cavities and cut small openings only where new boxes go. Where plaster has to be opened, it can be patched to match.
Should I keep the old push-button light switches?
Keep the look, not necessarily the switch. Push-button switches are common in houses built between about 1890 and 1940, and This Old House's master electrician recommends replacing the originals because the materials inside may have cracked. Listed reproduction push-button switches and dimmers are sold for period houses. The National Park Service counts switchplates and light fixtures among the early features worth keeping, so the old plate can often stay with a new switch behind it.
When should an old house be rewired?
Signs include flickering in several rooms, warm or discolored outlets, burning smells, breakers that trip often, two-prong outlets throughout, and knob-and-tube, cloth-insulated, or aluminum branch wiring. ASHI treats knob-and-tube as at the end of its service life. Some houses need a full rewire, and some only need the worst circuits replaced. InterNACHI notes a rewire can take weeks and cost thousands of dollars, so it is worth having me walk the house before you decide.
Can I live in my house during a rewire?
Usually, yes, but plan for some inconvenience. Work tends to go room by room, so power stays on in part of the house while another part is off. Expect noise, some dust, rooms you cannot use for a day or two, and power or internet off for a few hours at a time. Ask for a room-by-room plan and which circuits will be live each day, and some families stay elsewhere for the loudest days.
How long does it take to rewire a house?
It depends on the size of the house, how easy the attic and crawlspace are to reach, and what turns up inside the walls. InterNACHI says a full rewire can take weeks. Plaster walls and tight attics add time, while replacing just the worst few circuits can be much quicker. Ask me for a schedule after I have walked the house.
Knob-and-tube
What is knob-and-tube wiring?
Knob-and-tube was an early standard way to wire buildings in North America, in common use from about 1880 to the 1940s, according to InterNACHI. Single copper wires run through holes in the framing inside porcelain tubes and are held off the wood by porcelain knobs. The hot and neutral wires are kept apart, usually 4 to 6 inches, so heat escapes into open air. It has no ground wire, so it was never meant for three-prong appliances, and it is not allowed in new construction.
Is knob-and-tube illegal? Why do old houses still have it?
It is not illegal to have it. InterNACHI notes that no code requires complete removal of knob-and-tube already in a house, and different places treat it differently. Some require removal wherever it can be reached, and others only inspect it. The National Electrical Code still has an article for it (Article 394), and EC&M explains it can be extended in an existing installation with the building department's approval. Many houses built before the 1940s still have some of it in service, often mixed with newer wiring.
Does knob-and-tube need to be replaced?
Not automatically. InterNACHI says it is not dangerous just because it is old. The trouble comes from age, from unsafe changes made over the years, and from building insulation packed around the wires. It has no ground wire, it is usually a 15-amp circuit, and brittle or cracked insulation should be replaced. ASHI treats it as past its service life and recommends that an experienced electrician evaluate any of it still in use.
Will homeowners insurance cover a house with knob-and-tube?
Maybe not. InterNACHI says many insurers refuse houses with knob-and-tube because of fire risk, though some make an exception when an electrical contractor has found the system safe. ASHI tells buyers to call their insurer early, because a policy may depend on rewiring first. Ask your agent what the underwriter needs before you close or renew.
Can insulation go in over knob-and-tube?
Not over live knob-and-tube, under the National Electrical Code. Section 394.12 says concealed knob-and-tube shall not be used in hollow walls, ceilings, or attics insulated with loose, rolled, or foamed-in insulation that surrounds the wires, as Electrical Contractor magazine explains. The system was built to shed heat into open air, and InterNACHI says insulation around it causes heat to build up. Text me before an insulation job starts.
Can you replace knob-and-tube with new wiring?
Yes. I run new grounded circuits from the panel and disconnect the old knob-and-tube circuits so nothing is left live in them. Some houses are done all at once and some a few circuits at a time, starting with kitchens, baths, and anywhere insulation is going in. InterNACHI says knob-and-tube should not serve kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, or outdoor areas, since those need grounded wiring. Text me about your house.
Panels and service
When does a house need a service or panel upgrade?
Common signs are a fuse panel, a small service, breakers that trip often, lights that dim when big appliances start, rust or heat at the panel, and extension cords in everyday use. ESFI says panels installed before 1965 often served 30- or 60-amp services, while new homes need 100 to 200 amps. A big new load, like an EV charger, electric heat, a shop, or an addition, can also push a house past what its service can carry. The Department of Energy notes some homes lack the capacity for Level 2 charging. I do a load calculation to decide whether you need a new panel, a bigger service, or only a new circuit.
Should I replace my fuse box with a breaker panel?
In most houses, it is worth doing. Fuse panels are the older way to protect circuits, and ESFI notes panels from before 1965 generally use fuses on small services. A blown fuse has to be replaced, and a common hazard is someone putting in a bigger fuse so it stops blowing, which InterNACHI says lets the wire overheat. A breaker panel resets instead and has room for modern protection like AFCI and GFCI breakers. I can tell you whether the panel alone or the whole service should change.
Does a new panel replace the old wiring in the walls?
No. The panel is where circuits start and where breakers or fuses protect them. The wire in the walls is separate, and a new panel with knob-and-tube or cloth wire behind it still has that old wire. CPSC says older homes may especially benefit from AFCI protection against arcing in aging wiring, so a panel change is a good time to ask about it. Panel work and rewiring are different jobs, and I do both.
Can you add a circuit without rewiring the whole house?
Often, yes. I can run a new circuit for a kitchen appliance, a charger, a welder, or a pump from the panel to where it is needed without depending on the rest of the house wiring. What matters is whether the panel has space and the service has capacity for the new load, which I check with a load calculation. The Department of Energy makes the same point about chargers: some homes have room, and some need added capacity first.
Do you do service upgrades, panels, and remodel wiring?
Yes. I handle service upgrades, troubleshooting, breaker panels, fuse box to breaker panel changes, rewires, remodels, home additions, new construction wiring, and whole-home surge protection. Text me what you are planning.
Outlets, GFCI, and AFCI
What is the difference between a GFCI and an AFCI?
A GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) protects people from shock. It cuts power when current leaks out of the circuit, for example through a person. An AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupter) protects the house from fire. It cuts power when it detects dangerous arcing from damaged, overheated, or loose wiring. CPSC puts it simply: AFCIs address fire hazards, GFCIs address shock hazards, and combination devices do both. ESFI has a good side-by-side.
Can I swap my two-prong outlets for three-prong outlets?
Not just by changing the outlet. A three-slot outlet with no ground wire behind it looks safe but is not, and ASHI calls it a dangerous illusion. The best fix is new cable with a ground wire. Where that is not practical, the code allows GFCI protection on an ungrounded circuit, labeled "No Equipment Ground." EC&M explains that a GFCI works on two-wire circuits because it senses a difference in current, not a ground. Never connect the ground screw to the neutral or to a pipe. This is electrician work.
Where should GFCI outlets be?
NFPA recommends GFCIs in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and basements, and on every outdoor receptacle. NFPA also says to test GFCIs and AFCIs once a month with the test button. If a GFCI will not trip or will not reset, have it replaced. The same CPSC fact sheet that explains GFCIs notes they can come as an outlet, a breaker, or a portable plug-in unit.
Where should smoke and carbon monoxide alarms go?
NFPA recommends smoke alarms inside each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level of the home, including the basement, and replacing them when they are 10 years old. Interconnected alarms all sound together, so a fire in the basement sets off the one by the bedrooms. For carbon monoxide, NFPA says to put alarms outside each sleeping area and on every level. I install both.
Do you install outlets, lights, fans, and GFCI and AFCI protection?
Yes. I install outlets and switches, three-way switches, dimmers, indoor and outdoor lights, recessed lights, ceiling fans, exhaust fans, GFCI and AFCI protection, and outdoor outlets with weather covers. Text me what you want and where.
Farm, shop, and 240 volts
What is a 240-volt circuit, and when do I need one?
Most household outlets are 120 volts. Big loads like an electric dryer, an electric range, a welder, or a Level 2 EV charger run on 240 volts, which moves more power over the same size wire. The Department of Energy's Building America guide compares Level 2 charging to a clothes dryer for that reason. A 240-volt circuit uses a two-pole breaker and usually serves one appliance. Adding one means checking that the panel and service have room for the load, and both the check and the install are electrician work.
What is different about wiring a barn or farm building?
Barns are hard on wiring. Dust, moisture, washdown water, and corrosive manure gases break down ordinary materials. National Electrical Code Article 547 covers agricultural buildings with that kind of dust, water, or corrosive air. As the New York Electrical Inspection Agency summarizes it, boxes and fittings there must keep out dust and moisture and resist corrosion, and many receptacles need GFCI protection. The rural electric councils' Ag Wiring Handbook goes deeper.
Do you wire barns, shops, and pumps?
Yes. I wire barns, shops, and other outbuildings, along with well pumps, irrigation pumps, grain equipment, welders, compressors, long runs, yard lights, and pole lights. Text me what you want to run and how far it is from the power.
A well pump or irrigation pump will not start. What now?
See whether its breaker is tripped. If it trips again right away, leave it off. Notice what the pump does: whether it hums without running, clicks, or cycles on and off. Pump circuits are often 240 volts and run long distances to a well house or a field, so troubleshooting them is electrician work. Text me what it is doing and whether it is in a well house or out in the field.
Charging and backup
Do I need a Level 2 charger, or is a regular outlet enough?
Many drivers get by on Level 1, the cord that comes with the car, plugged into a regular outlet on a dedicated circuit near where they park. The Department of Energy says Level 2 makes sense for drivers with long commutes, irregular schedules, or large batteries that will not refill overnight on Level 1.
What does it take to install a Level 2 EV charger at home?
Level 2 uses 240-volt equipment. ESFI says it should be installed by a qualified electrician on a dedicated circuit that feeds nothing else, using equipment listed by a nationally recognized testing lab, and that it can add roughly 10 to 60 miles of range per hour depending on the car and charger. The Department of Energy says an electrician can tell you whether your home has enough capacity, and some homes need added capacity first. Installations have to meet code, and a permit may be required.
What size breaker does an EV charger need?
The National Electrical Code treats EV charging as a continuous load, because the car can draw full current for hours. The breaker has to be rated at least 125 percent of the charger's maximum load, per the IREC code checklist for chargers. That is why a charger set to 32 amps goes on a 40-amp circuit and a 48-amp charger goes on a 60-amp circuit. The charger's manual matters too, and an electrician sizes the breaker and wire to both.
Will I need a panel or service upgrade for an EV charger?
Sometimes. The Department of Energy says some homes do not have enough capacity for Level 2 charging and a qualified electrician can add circuits to fit it, and ESFI notes a Level 2 install may need a service upgrade. The way to know is a load calculation on your house. Many homes with room in the panel only need the new circuit.
Can an EV charger go outside? Is charging in the rain safe?
Yes, with the right equipment. The Department of Energy says outdoor installation and use are safe, even when the car is charging in the rain, as long as the equipment is rated for outdoor use.
Can I plug a generator into a wall outlet to power the house?
No. Plugging a generator into a wall outlet is called backfeeding. CPSC warns it can electrocute utility workers and neighbors served by the same transformer, and it bypasses some of the house's own protection. To run house circuits from a generator, an electrician installs a transfer switch or other approved equipment that keeps the generator and the utility from connecting at the same time. CPSC also says to run portable generators outdoors only, far from doors, windows, and vents, because of carbon monoxide.
Do you install EV chargers, generators, and transfer switches?
Yes. I install EV charging ports and wall chargers, backup generators, and transfer switches. A charger needs room in the panel, so text me the charger model and where the car parks.
Signs and lighting
Can a neon sign be repaired, or does it need to be replaced?
Many neon signs can be repaired. A common failure is the transformer that drives the glass tubing, and transformer instructions call for a qualified electrical person to remove and reinstall it. Neon runs at high voltage, so the high-voltage leads have to be routed carefully. Under National Electrical Code Article 600, electric signs must be listed and installed to that listing, as EC&M covers, and IAEI notes the field wiring to a sign is inspected. I repair and replace neon.
Is switching a parking lot to LED lighting worth it?
Usually. The Department of Energy says high-efficiency parking lighting can cut energy costs by up to 70 percent and maintenance costs by up to 90 percent. DOE's outdoor lighting fact sheet puts LED life at 50,000 hours or more, compared with 15,000 to 35,000 hours for metal halide and high-pressure sodium, and LEDs come on instantly. DOE also notes product quality varies and payback depends on the site.
What other work do you do?
I also handle sign production and installation, inside and out, and neon repair. I work on parking lot lighting and LED upgrades, electrical metering and usage monitoring, security access controls, network and security cabling, home entertainment systems, and HD antennas. Text me what you need.
Becoming an electrician in Utah
What does "Master Electrician" mean in Utah?
It is the top individual electrician license in Utah, issued by the Division of Professional Licensing. The usual path, per DOPL, is 8,000 hours of experience as a licensed journeyman plus passing the Utah Master Electrician Law and Rule exam and the practical exam. DOPL allows shorter experience for applicants with an accredited electrical engineering degree or an associate degree from an electrical trade program. Since the journeyman license itself takes years of apprenticeship, a master license reflects a long stretch of supervised field work and two rounds of state exams.
What is a journeyman electrician in Utah?
A Utah journeyman has finished a four-year electrical apprenticeship education program (576 classroom hours) and 8,000 hours of licensed work under a journeyman or master, then passed the state written and practical exams. Without the school program, DOPL requires 16,000 hours of supervised licensed experience plus the same exams.
What is an apprentice electrician in Utah?
An apprentice is licensed by DOPL to learn the trade on the job. The apprentice license requires a Verification of Supervision form signed by the employer. Apprentices work under a licensed journeyman or master electrician and do not take jobs on their own, as the Springville building division reminds homeowners.
How many kinds of electrician licenses does Utah have?
Five, according to DOPL: Apprentice, Journeyman, Master, Residential Journeyman, and Residential Master. The residential licenses are the residential-only versions, with shorter experience requirements. Residential Journeyman, for example, takes a two-year program and 4,000 hours instead of four years and 8,000.
How long does it take to become an electrician?
Years. The Bureau of Labor Statistics says most electricians learn in a four- or five-year apprenticeship, with about 2,000 hours of paid on-the-job training a year plus classroom instruction. In Utah, the standard journeyman path is a four-year program with 576 classroom hours and 8,000 hours of supervised work, and a master license usually takes another 8,000 hours after that. DOPL keeps a list of recognized apprenticeship programs. Close to home, Snow College runs one, and students find their own job with a licensed contractor for the on-the-job hours.
Do electricians have to keep training after they are licensed?
Yes. Utah electrical licenses renew every two years, and DOPL requires 16 hours of continuing education each cycle. At least 12 of those hours are core: 8 on the National Electrical Code and 4 on NFPA 70E, the standard for electrical safety on the job. The code changes over time, and the renewal rule keeps licensed electricians current with it.
Working with an electrician
How do I check an electrician's license in Utah?
Use DOPL's Licensee Lookup and Verification system, which you can also reach from the "Verify a License" link on the DOPL site. Search by name or license number, and check that the license is active. For a contracting business, look at the classifications to see what work it covers. The Springville building division points out that if a search comes up empty after you check the spelling, the person is not licensed in Utah.
Does an electrical contracting business need its own license in Utah?
Yes. Utah licenses the individual electrician and, separately, the contracting business. The electrical contractor classifications are E200 General Electrical and E201 Residential Electrical, listed in Utah Admin. Code R156-55a-301. A general building contractor's own license does not cover electrical work, though it may hire a licensed journeyman or master for electrical work on homes of up to four units. You can check both kinds of license on DOPL's lookup.
Why hire a licensed electrician instead of doing it myself?
Electrical mistakes often do not show up right away. A loose connection or the wrong size wire can sit in a wall for years before it overheats. A Utah license stands for thousands of supervised hours, state exams, and ongoing code training (see the licensing questions above). Safety groups agree: CPSC says to have a qualified electrician install AFCIs and not to attempt it yourself, because panel boxes are usually live even with the main breaker off, and NFPA says to have all electrical work done by a qualified electrician.
What does an electrical inspector do?
An electrical inspector works for the local building department and checks that an installation meets the adopted electrical code. IAEI, the electrical inspectors' association, quotes the job straight from the National Electrical Code: "the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity." Work like service changes and new circuits is commonly permitted and inspected. Your city or county building department can tell you what applies to a given job.